Back in Kin!
I arrived on Sunday in Kinshasa, leaving behind the chilly Johannesburg winter months. It’s actually the cool season here too, and it is much more comfortable than when I was here before. The sky is constantly hazy, which weakens the sun a bit and also makes for an absolutely amazing full moon. Some impressions:
I’m shocked by how little I seem to have forgotten of Lingala or of the city. I can still get around without a problem. As friends in Kin have been telling me, it does seem to be more “orderly,” especially on the roads: no more crowding two or more people into a single seat, the taxis only stop where there are designated places to stop, front-seat passengers wear their seat belts, and I saw a working traffic light last night that was obeyed.
Every time I go out, I run into someone I know. This is kind of typical for me anywhere I go (for some odd reason), but it’s a really nice and “homey” thing here. The people here are just amazing.
This trip is comfortable because of the cooler weather, but also because of my living situation - I’m staying at the house of a friend, and the accommodations are very, very nice. I’m seeing my best friends from before (Serge is here, although Gianni is in Europe performing with Kester, and reportedly heading to North America sometime soon), other friends and colleagues who are also visiting, and making new friends: I was out to dinner last night with a group of Americans, all of whom I’ve met in the last few days.
The Congolese are almost all working and living in the same places they were when I left, whereas most of the expats that I knew are gone elsewhere. I suppose that makes sense - foreigners living in a country are by definition transient. It’s just amazing to me how quickly people come and go!
I went to a Bana OK concert on the day I arrived, and am planning to go out tonight with a big group. I also have quite a schedule of presentations - I’ll be giving a couple of talks through the U.S. embassy, at least one public event at the music school here, and am also attending and participating in several other talks at Universities and other organizations.
I’m writing here, and also bouncing the ideas I’ve already written up off of scholars and musicians from Kinshasa. It’s been very affirming - I really feel like I’m on the right track with a lot of things. I’m also learning a ton from listening to scholarly debates, especially with other visitors like myself from different fields.
One of my favorite quotes so far was a Congolese acquaintance talking about getting stopped by the police for weaving in his car. When he pointed out the giant potholes he had been trying to circumnavigate, the officer replied: “dans le code de la route, il n’y a pas de trous.” (”there are no holes according to the law of the road”) I love it.
I’m eating and drinking well, although I’ve been quite spoiled in Johannesburg by the availability of high-quality steak and salad. I used to come into town from the cite just for those items, but am not at all tempted this trip. I suppose that after a couple weeks I’ll be a lot less picky. Went back to my regular spot for dinner, and it was all that I had remembered it being!
OK, that’s all for now! Back to being busy!